The Erie Canal 2024

There is always the excuse that life is too crazy to keep me from catching up on my posts this year. But it is only an excuse. Truth is I watched too many crime shows on TV to escape the painful political scene that unfolded throughout the year. Though it was also simply a crazy year. It was thankfully also one that was interrupted in the pleasantest of ways by another water paddle with Karen.

For many reasons, we did not take the path we intended. Last year (2023), we explored the Upper Connecticut River Lakes, the headwaters of the Connecticut River which powered so much of New England’s industrial revolution. Today it still provides electricity and tourism and incredible scenery as it winds its way down the border of Vermont and New Hampshire, though Massachusetts and Connecticut, and into the Long Island Sound. I managed some posts of those adventures with our spouses before the end of 2023. It was our intention to paddle the whole length of the Connecticut River in one fell swoop in 2024. Now, we are hoping to do it next year, in part or in whole.

I’m cutting it pretty close as I have one more day to post some stories about our alternative route this year on the Erie Canal. This was a first for us. Getting in a river in the middle and getting out before it ended. Our story has been to start at the headwaters and end where a river pours into a new body of water.

River, you may ask. But we thought you went on the Erie Canal? Approved to be built in 1817 and completed in 1825, the original canal was 363 miles long and was carved out of much of the Mohawk River which still at times runs alongside the canal or merges with it. It is kind of a river and a canal at the same time.

The Mohawk River served as a transportation artery for the Seneca Nation long before Europeans like Hudson charted the territory. Dugout canoes were their vessels. With European colonization and expansion, The Erie Canal was a major artery for western expansion and development from Troy, NY, on the Hudson River, to Buffalo, NY, on Lake Erie. From Lake Erie the possibilities of commerce, travel, and expansion were nearly limitless even in an era of mules and barges and steamboats. It remains a major waterway, mostly for outdoor tourism, today. It is well maintained by a series of locks and dams and is run by the NYS Canal Corporation.

Why the Erie Canal? We picked it this year because it was easily accessed by both of us and seemed like it would require less effort. The latter was not necessarily the case, but our choice took us on an historical journey more robust that the ones we travelled on other rivers. The big rivers we have paddled have their share of history but on the Canal the history seemed more compact, and markers and information laid out by the Erie Canal Way National Heritage Corridor were packed with details that neither of us, having lived in New York State for a combined 70 years or so, knew.

What was similar in our journey this year to our weeks of paddling the streams of Western New York, the Alleghany River, the Ohio River, and the Susquehanna River, is that wherever we went, the beauty was amazing. People were beautiful and kind and had interesting stories to tell. Kindness is sometimes experienced simply by another woman recognizing our desperate need to use a toilet and letting us into a clubroom that would normally have been locked to us. On all rivers, there is industry along with natural beauty but even the industrial scenes have their own beauty: the steel, the carefully laid carved rocks holding the sides of the canal up, the locks. Of course, we still find the natural beauty the most pleasing as we depart from our day to day lives each year to find a new adventure in our friend Wonder, the red canoe.

Tomorrow, I will share some details for our days on the canal and try to conclude this season by midnight so we can start planning 2025.

Finally getting to see the headwaters

IMG_3252[1]I only remember seeing the headwaters of one river before last year.  It was the Arkansas River.  That’s when I learned that rivers seem to be named for where they end, not where they begin.  That’s an interesting notion to me!  Somehow I had always thought that the headwaters of a river would be grand and obvious.  The Arkansas starts in Colorado and the headwaters are a mere stream, of sorts, going through a meadow.  This proved to be the same with the Allegheny.

After completing our flume/luge-like experience, our friend John was kind enough to oblige my desire to see where the river really started.  I had googled it and found a sign indicating the headwaters.  I wanted to see that sign and so he guided us back up river about 30 minutes to the meadow where the waters trickle together to begin the stream that becomes a river with deep waters and deeper history.  The stream was tinier than Cassadaga Creek, that small waterway we had started on years earlier.

I still find it amazing that great things have such humble beginnings and I wonder if we will be able to someday say that we paddled to the other end of that river where it dumps its muddy waters into the Mighty Mississippi.IMG_3249[1]

Remembering the Past

Our second day of adventure in 2014 took us back to where it all began in 2001.  It was a short drive to Red Bird Corners in Sinclairville, NY, and one of the public access areas to the Marden E. Cobb Waterway Trail. My family used to live 1.5 miles up hill from this crossroads. I remember thinking one day when I was driving home that one could put a canoe in the creek there and paddle for months and get to New Orleans. It took me some time to find out that Karen was up for that adventure though we knew right away that we could not go all at once. The trip would have to be many years long, a segment at a time.

When we walked to the creek’s edge, it was clear that a lot of rain had fallen. The creek was swollen and moving fast.

Old friends back at the edge of Cassadaga Creek where it all began.
Old friends back at the edge of Cassadaga Creek where it all began.

The swollen waters at Red Bird Corners
The swollen waters at Red Bird Corners

Karen studying the map for where to go next.  Upstream to Cassadaga?
Karen studying the map for where to go next. Upstream to Cassadaga?

We wondered if we could get in above that point, perhaps even at Cassadaga Lakes, so we went on a drive to various put-in areas and found the water everywhere was over the banks, making once dry land into marshy land. We could not see how we would get in or get out. Finally we ended up at the lakes behind a fire department building where there was a place we could put in but the journey ahead somewhat resembled the Okefenokee swamps. Karen wondered if we could even find the main channel. And the wind was blowing hard upstream, a scenario we all too well remembered from our last day on the Ohio River last June. It is really NOT fun to push against wind in a canoe.

Completing our reconnaisance, we drove to Allegheny Outfitters in Ashville, NY, and treated ourselves to some new neoprene gear. Karen purchased some pants and I purchased a shirt. It’s always fun to add a new item to our gear. I remember the first year we purchased something special for our trips. We bought paddling gloves. I felt so professional! Since then we have purchased or been given wet suits and booties, tiny cook stoves, new sleeping bags and, of course, the canoe and paddles. It dawns on us periodically that we are seasoned canoeists! There were yet challenges that would confront us the next day that reminded us to stay humble, gear or no gear, experienced or not. We went back to Karen’s that afternoon and prepared ourselves for a two day trip starting at the headwaters of the Allegheny.